Nova Scotia and Newfoundland

There seem to be more Spruce trees in Nova Scotia and Newfoundland than anywhere else in the world. They stretch from horizon to horizon in all directions, the sage-green monotony only occasionally being broken by lime green larches, gray granite rocky outcroppings or clear-cuts! Despite this apparent mono-culture, the birding was very good in both provinces, and our first Venture to Atlantic Canada went very well indeed. It's always hard to identify specific highlights, but some birds and situations do indeed stand out head and shoulders around the rest. When I think of the Canadian Maritime Provinces, I think seabird colonies, alive with the sound, smell and bustle of thousands of birds going about their daily business. I think of small, colorful fishing villages that seem to come alive off picture postcards. I think of boreal forest birds sitting atop the many spruce trees singing their often clear whistled songs. All of these rolled together form my image of these northern lands. Then there are things I didn't recall, such as the cold banks of fog that hang off shore only to roll across the sea cliffs when the wind changes; the icebergs slowly cruising past Cape Bonavista; The near miss with the bull Moose that charged out of the fog one night and the rich history of the Scots, French and Irish that left such an indelible impression on the way of life nowadays. Ferry crossings from Nova Scotia to Newfoundland were long and foggy, the only sound being the bellowing of the ships foghorn echoing in the thick grayness of the air. Despite the poor visibility, pelagic birds were not difficult to see. Greater and Manx Shearwaters flew low over the wave tops and both Leach's and Wilson's Storm-Petrels fluttered between the wave-troughs and, despite their small size, were eventually seen by all of the group participants. The best bird seen from the boat was an apparition that flew out of the fog and over the bow of the ferry - a magnificent South Polar Skua that was wintering here from its breeding grounds in the South Atlantic. A boat trip into Witless Bay south of St John's showed us some of the largest puffin colonies in the North Atlantic, thousands of Common Murres, Razorbills and a terrific breaching show by a young Humpback Whale. At times the air was filled with birds flying to and from their nesting colonies - what a sight! Many of the northern birds show little fear of humans, and this was dramatically displayed by a pair of Pine Grosbeaks that were feeding on dandelion seeds along the roadside. We watched them from a distance of about 4 feet, taking frame-filling photographs until the birds decided were just too close and hopped a couple of feet further away. The birding spectacle at Cape St Mary's was equally as riveting. Thousands of Northern Gannets were nesting on offshore stacks only a stone throws away from the cliff edge, giving us a spectacular view into the squabbling and feeding of the gannet colony. While the fog again rolled in partially obscuring the frenzy of the bird activity. We had our picnic lunch in this picturesque spot, our noses having become immune to the smell of the seabird colony lost in the fog. Horned Larks and American Pipits kept us on our toes during lunch and gave us great views of these species - our only ones of the entire trip. Would be go back? Of course, for the dramatic beauty at every turn, the friendly people who could not do enough for us and the feeling of wilderness - a rarity in our frantic congested world.

Bird List & Location Guide for 
Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, Canada

June 28 - July 12, 2004

 Bird and Animal List

Birds
Common Loon	Black-backed Woodpecker
Northern Fulmar	Eastern Wood-Pewee
Greater Shearwater	Yellow-bellied Flycatcher
Manx Shearwater	Alder Flycatcher
Wilson’s Storm-Petrel	Blue-headed Vireo
Leach’s Storm-Petrel	Red-eyed Vireo
Northern Gannet	Gray Jay
Double-crested Cormorant	Blue Jay
Great Cormorant	American Crow
Great Blue Heron	Common Raven
Canada Goose	Horned Lark
Wood Duck	Tree Swallow
American Wigeon	Bank Swallow
American Black Duck	Cliff Swallow
Mallard	Barn Swallow
Ring-necked Duck	Black-capped Chickadee
Greater Scaup	Boreal Chickadee
Common Eider	Red-breasted Nuthatch
Surf Scoter	Winter Wren
White-winged Scoter	Golden-crowned Kinglet
Hooded Merganser	Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Common Merganser	Swainson’s Thrush
Canvasback	Hermit Thrush
Osprey	American Robin
Bald Eagle	Gray Catbird
Northern Harrier	Cedar Waxwing
Broad-winged Hawk	European Starling
Red-tailed Hawk	American Pipit
American Kestrel	Tennessee Warbler
Merlin	Northern Parula
Ring-necked Pheasant	Yellow Warbler
Ruffed Grouse	Magnolia Warbler
Piping Plover	Yellow-rumped Warbler
Killdeer	Black-throated Green Warbler
Greater Yellowlegs	Blackburnian Warbler
Willet	Palm Warbler
Spotted Sandpiper	Bay-breasted Warbler
Wilson’s Snipe	Black-and-white Warbler
South Polar Skua	American Redstart
Parasitic Jaeger	Ovenbird
Black-headed Gull	Northern Waterthrush
Bonaparte’s Gull	Mourning Warbler
Ring-billed Gull	Common Yellowthroat
Herring Gull	Wilson’s Warbler
Greater Black-backed Gull	Savannah Sparrow
Black-legged Kittiwake	Nelson’s Sharp-tailed Sparrow
Caspian Tern	Fox Sparrow
Common Tern	Song Sparrow
Arctic Tern	Lincoln’s Sparrow
Common Murre	Swamp Sparrow
Thick-billed Murre	White-throated Sparrow
Razorbill	Dark-eyed Junco
Black Guillemot	Bobolink
Atlantic Puffin	Red-winged Blackbird
Rock Dove	Rusty Blackbird
Mourning Dove	Common Grackle
Short-eared Owl	Pine Grosbeak
Chimney Swift	Purple Finch
Ruby-throated Hummingbird	House Finch
Belted Kingfisher	White-winged Crossbill
Downy Woodpecker	Pine Siskin
Hairy Woodpecker	American Goldfinch
Northern Flicker	Evening Grosbeak
Three-toed Woodpecker	House Sparrow
Mammals
Fin Whale	Porcupine (dead on road!)
Minke Whale	Red Squirrel
Humpback Whale	Eastern Chipmunk
Long-finned Pilot Whale	Varying Hare
Harbor Porpoise	Northern Raccoon (dead on road!)
Atlantic Gray Seal	Red Fox (black phase)
Moose	Shrew (Masked/Cinereous?)
Reptiles and Amphibians
Green Frog
Butterflies
Canadian Tiger Swallowtail	Mourning Cloak
Black Swallowtail	American Painted Lady
Cabbage White	Northern Ringlet
Clouded Sulphur	Summer Azure
Fritillary sp	Blue sp
Red Admiral	Least Skipper

Selected Flora of Nova Scotia and Newfoundland, July, 2004