Introduction to Andean Birds - March 2006

After a comfortable flight the group arrived in Quito on Sunday afternoon and transferred to the Hotel Dann Carlton. After a quick change at the hotel, we went off to the Metropolitan Park with Juan and driver Gallo for some birding. Even though no target birds had been established, we were pleasantly surprised by the variety of birds seen and were amazed by the bright yellow bill of a male Band-tailed Seedeater. Later we ate at the Magic Bean, a favorite restaurant in Quito, and all but Kyle and Melissa sampled Coca Tea, and some an excellent Batido Mora. At this point the eccentric characters had yet to surface. Well not quite - several not to be mentioned by name group members in their enthusiasm to eat jumped in what they thought was a taxi outside the hotel - the kind car owner took them to the Magic Bean accepted their estimate of a fare then they left. Oops, this turned out to be a private car and not a taxi…

An early start on Monday found us driving up Papallacta Pass, following in the footsteps of the Conquistador Orellana. We missed Condors but located Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe at over 14,000 ft and we had one of the first of 48 species of hummingbirds found during the trip - a beautiful male Ecuadorian Hillstar. A wonderful lunch was taken at Guango Lodge approximately 20 minutes below the village of Papallacta - but many participants found eating difficult as the hummingbird feeders just 15 ft away proved a powerful distraction. The Sword-billed was particularly distracting. Returning to Papallacta, Mark caused the first of many 'near' heart attacks among us and driver as he screamed "Mountain-Toucan!" But once the bus stopped, the Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan was rather disappointingly not relocated. Returning to the Dann Carlton, we were informed that the next day's trip to Otavalo had to be cancelled because of an indigenous strike, but they agreed to offer a trip to Yanacocha - the Inca Ditch, a subsidiary cone of the Volcano Guagua Pichincha that looms over Quito.

Again, rising early on Tuesday, the group drove up to 12,300 ft to Yanacocha - and what birding! Immediately after disembarking from the bus at the first set of hummingbird feeders, we heard an Undulated Antpitta. At these feeders the group also had Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Great Sapphirewing and Sword-billed Hummingbird. Between feeders, a pair of Golden-crowned Tanagers and a male Rainbow-bearded Thornbill. At the second set of feeders, the group had a fantastic male Black-breasted Puffleg - this species is considered among the rarest 50 bird species on earth, and is only found on the Volcano Pichincha and its adjacent ridges. Later returning from the first tunnel, we had Rufous Antpitta and White-browed Spinetail. The only disappointment was the fog - it inhibited us from seeing the great views that match the great birding!

Again, rising early on Wednesday, with a number of us wondering whether yesterday could be matched, we drove up to Antisana. Seven Andean condors, seven Black-faced Ibis, and many Black-winged Ground-doves, and a great lunch at the Hacienda Antisana later - most of us came away satisfied. Back in Quito, by default we returned to the Magic Bean for magic Coca Tea.

Finally on Thursday we left the comfortable confines of the Dann Carlton and drove west, up and over the western cordillera of the Andes. Just before Mitad de Mundo - the center of the world - we found a Giant Hummingbird visiting a Century plant. Stopping at Mindo Lomo to observe their hummingbird feeders, we got great views of the spectacular Velvet-purple Coronet and Empress Brilliant. Arriving late in the pouring rain at Septimo Paraiso, we enjoyed a great meal and great accommodation. But before retiring to each room, only Mark observed a Rufous-bellied Nighthawk: But Melanie and Tim found a fantastic Black-and-white Owl hunting for insects in the porch lights.

Again, rising way early -- breakfast was taken at 4 AM - we headed to the famed 'Antpitta Farm' or rather Refugio Paz de los Aves on the Calacali road. After a crazy drive along dirt roads and over a tiny bridge and a rapid hike descending to a canvas hide, we watched 8 male Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks displaying not 20 feet from the hide. Wow!!! Then the guide called in two Giant Antpittas and a Yellow-breasted Antpitta and fed them worms by hand. Wow again!!! Incredible!!! We also had a wonderful late breakfast at the Refugio. Rather anticlimactically, we then made our way to the Tandayapa Valley and Tony and Barbara's famed hummingbird garden at Pacha Quindi. Lunch was on their porch and we were amazed by the 1000+ hummingbirds that use their feeders. Finally we birded the Tanager-Finch site at the intersection of the Nanegalito road and Old Mindo-Nono. Unfortunately we missed the Tanager-Finch, but observed a great Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan.

The last day began with an early stroll around Septimo Paraiso to get some local birds, a late breakfast (7:30 AM), and a trip to Milpe. Milpe did not disappoint us. We saw a Moss-backed Tanager, the rare Pacific Tuftedcheek, and a lek of Club-winged Manakins. Not bad! Then we had a flock which included a Toucan Barbet, Red-headed Barbet, Russet Antshrike, Slaty Antwren, Choco Warbler, and Pacific Flatbill. A second flock included a noisy group of Ochre-breasted Tanagers and a Swainson's Thrush. Weird! Returning to Septimo Paraiso for lunch, we reluctantly packed and then boarded the bus to return to Quito. But what a trip and what memoirs and what birds - 48 species of hummingbirds and a total trip list of 295 species in 8 days, 7 nights. We cannot wait to run next year's trip and get more hummers and more tanagers.