A TRIP REPORT FOR A WEEKS BIRDING TO THE SANTA MARTA MOUNTAINS AND THE COLOMBIAN CARIBBEAN COAST

November 22nd - November 28th, 2008

Trip Leaders:  Renzo Zeppilli T and Simon Thompson

Pro Aves Local Ornithologists:

Luis Eduardo Urueña and Christian Olaciregui

With: John Hardister, Gerry Shemilt, Steve Tracy, Pru Williams and Mark Welford  

CLICK HERE for 
Exploratory Trip to the Santa Marta Mountains 
of Colombia – November 21-28, 2008

 

El Dorado Lodge - Santa Marta Mountains

A very interesting trip along the northern Colombian coast and into the geographically isolated Santa Marta mountain range. This area has been under siege for the last decade and finally (since two years ago) peace has returned, opening the possibility of birding into an incredible area with many endemic species and future possible splits. We also covered in this trip the Caribbean coastal mangroves and the Guajira peninsula life zones adding some interesting resident birds.  It was also good to see many northern migrants in their winter grounds and the type of habitat and elevation that these birds prefer when they come to South America. We recorded 20 Colombian endemics, the majority restricted to the Santa Marta Maountains, and a further 13 range restricted species

We had a great time! A very good team with everybody spotting and helping each other. Exciting birding in great habitat and great food. With the assistance of the very helpful and knowledgeable Pro Aves local ornithologists Luis Eduardo Urueña and Cristian Olaciregui the operation run smoothly besides a couple of incidents that were promptly solved.

 DAY BY DAY ACTIVITIES

November 21st: Arrive at Barranquilla airport and drive to El Prado Hotel. Trip Briefing Night at El Prado Hotel

November 22nd: Early morning drive to Salamanca N.P. birding at Los Cocos around the mangroves. Then drive along the coast towards Santa Marta with stops along the way on the many small lagoons near Cienaga. Lunch outside Tayrona NP at Rio Piedra. Afternoon near Camarones along Guajira bio-region Xerophitic Dry Scrub.  Night at Riohacha. Seal Level

November 23rd: Early morning in Camarones, field breakfast and continued birding along the road inside Flamencos N.P. Lunch at the Beach. Drive to Minca and change to 4wd vehicles to climb along the Santa Marta mountains to El Dorado Pro-Aves Reserve.   Night at El Dorado Lodge. 2000m.

November 24th: 5:15 Breakfast . Birding uphill from El Dorado Lodge supported by the vehicles. Up to 2200 m. Lunch at the lodge. Afternoon along lodge trail inside the montane forest. Night at El Dorado Lodge. 2000m.

November 25th:  4:45 Breakfast . Birding downhill from El Dorado Lodge to Palo Alto due to heavy rain in the upper sections of San Lorenzo ridge. Birding down to 1700m.  Afternoon at Palo Alto looking for Blossomcrown. Owling near the lodge. Night at El Dorado Lodge. 2000m.

November 26th: 4:45 Breakfast. Drive lo San Lorenzo ridge, stopping along the way for White-tailed Starfrontlet. Laguna & Antenna road. Late afternoon around lodge grounds. Night at El Dorado Lodge. 2000m.

November 27th: 5:30 Breakfast. Birding lodge trail. Downhill up to Landslide and then crossed on foot changing vehicles on the other side. Drive to Barranquilla. Amazing rain on arrival, flooding some of the main streets, chaos!

November 28th: Drive to Barranquilla Airport. Stop at Bogota International Airport. Birding the airport surroundings.

THE BIRDLIST

* = Heard Only

E = Endemic to Colombia.

NE = Near-Endemic e.g. just sneaks into Venezuela

SACC = South American Classification Committee 

IOC = International Ornithological Congress

PELICANIDAE

Brown Pelican                                                Pelecanus occidentalis

Several seen along the coast.

PHALACROCORACIDEA

Neotropic Cormorant                         Phalacrocorax brasilianus

More than 60 individuals seen the first two days along the Caribbean coast

FREGATIDAE

Magnificent Frigatebird                                Fregata magnificensis

Twenty individuals in total along the Caribbean coast

ARDEIDAE

Snowy Egret                                                    Egretta thula

Common along the coast.

Cocoi Heron                                                   Ardea cocoi

Three individuals seen along the coast. Checklist committee says "Formerly (e.g., Meyer de Schauensee 1970) known as "White-necked Heron," but this name is also used (e.g., Martínez-Vilata & Motis 1992) for Old World Ardea pacifica."

Tricolored Heron                                                       Hydranassa tricolor

More than a dozen individuals seen along the coast.

Great Egret                                                                 Ardea albus

Common along the coast

Little Blue Heron                                                       Egretta caerulea

Several individuals seen along the coast.

Cattle Egret                                                                Bubulcus ibis

Common

Striated Heron                                                                        Butorides striatus

Three seen in total along the coast

  Black-crowned Night-Heron                                      Nycticorax nycticorax

Three seen along the coast near Cienaga on Nov 22nd.

  Yellow-crowned Night-Heron                                                Nyctinassa violacea

One seen along the coast near Cienaga

CICONIDAE

American Wood Stork                                                Mycteria americana

More than thirty individuals seen near the Guajira on Nov 22nd and 23rd.

THRESKIORNITHIDAE

White Ibis                                                                   Eudocimus albus

Four individuals seen along the coast.

  Glossy Ibis                                                                  Plegadis falcinellus

Twelve individuals seen on Nov 22nd along the road to Camarones.

  Roseate Spoonbill                                                       Aajaia ajaja

Five birds seen along the coast.

  ANATIDAE

Black-bellied Whistling Duck                                                Dendrocygna autumnalis

Two dozens seen along the coast on the road to Camarones

  White-cheeked Pintail                                                            Anas bahamensis

Three individuals seen along the coast

  Blue-Winged Teal                                                      Anas discors

More than forty individuals seen in a lagoon near Cienaga on Nov 22nd.

  CATHARTIDAE

Black Vulture                                                              Coragyps atratus

Common

Turkey Vulture                                                           Cathartes aura

Common

Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture                                  Cathartes burrovianus

Common over the bodies of water near the coast.

King Vulture                                                               Sarcoramphus papa

One seen at Rio Piedra on nov 22nd.

PANDIONIDAE

Osprey                                                                                    Pandion haliaetus

Seven seen near the coast. Pandion in Greek mythology was king of Attica whose tragic daughters, Philomela and Procne were metamorphosed into a Nightingale and a Swallow respectively. The latter daughter gives the corrupted name to the Martin genus Progne.

ACCIPITRIDAE

Pearl Kite                                                                   Gampsonyx swainsonii           

One bird seen perched on a tree near Palomino on nov 22nd                                           

Snail Kite                                                                                Rostrhamus sociabilis

Seen three of them soaring above Salamanca NP

Hook-billed Kite                                                        Chrondohierax uncinatus

One individual seen soaring along the coast on nov 22nd.

Common Black-Hawk                                                            Buteogallus anthracinus

Two birds seen two days in a row along the coast near the mangroves.

Roadside Hawk                                                          Buteo magnirostris

One heard on nov 22nd.

Grey-lined Hawk                                                        Asturina nitida

One adult and one immature seen near Minca on nov 26th. One seen. Formerly placed in the monotypic genus Asturina. The SACC says - REFS> and Sibley & Monroe (1990) considered the Middle American subspecies plagiata to deserve recognition as a separate species (Gray Hawk) from Asturina nitidus (Gray-lined Hawk), but in part because no rationale was published, this treatment has not been widely accepted; see Hellmayr & Conover (1949) for rationale for treating them as con-specific. NOTE: British versus American spelling - the IOC says: "The names reflect the committee's view that spelling should be consistent throughout the list. Easily stated and on its face obvious, this rule became difficult to apply where the same words have for centuries been spelled differently in different English-speaking countries. The problem essentially involves British and American spellings, with some countries being on one side and some on the other. The committee decided to select one spelling for each variant word, because to state these words in the alternative in every case would produce a cumbersome list." In the case of grey - it was chosen because historically more species have it spelt that way.

Savanna Hawk                                                            Heterospizias meridionalis

Two seen on the fields along the coast.

FALCONIDAE

Northern Crested Caracara                                       Caracara cheriway

35 individuals seen in total. Small numbers at several sites. Formerly placed in the genus Polyborus but this species has been switched to the genus Caracara. Note also that the former species known as Crested Caracara, has been split into three species with those ranging north of north-west Peru and the Amazon River (i.e. Colombia) and as far as the USA, according to the IOC, retain the name Northern Crested Caracara C. cheriway, the birds from Southern Peru to the tip of South America, Tierra del Fuego, are referable to the species Caracara plancus Southern Crested Caracara, while another form, the extinct Guadalupe Caracara C. lutosus, of Guadalupe Island, Mexico, has also been given its untimely species status. The SACC says "Caracara cheriway and C. plancus were formerly considered conspecific (e.g., Hellmayr & Conover 1949, Phelps & Phelps 1958a), sometimes also including C. lutosus of Guadalupe Island (e.g., Meyer de Schauensee 1970, Stresemann and Amadon 1979), but the ranges of cheriway and plancus are nearly parapatric with no sign of intergradation, contrary to earlier interpretations (see Banks REF); they constitute a superspecies. The three forms had previously been considered separate species by REFS, Pinto (1938), and Friedmann (1950)."

Yellow-headed Caracara                                             Milvago chimachima

More than seven individuals seen along the coast.

Peregrine Falcon                                                        Falco peregrinus

One individual seen at Camarones on Nov 23rd. 

CRACIDAE

Band-tailed Guan                                            Penelope argyrotis

2 individuals seen briefly by Mark along the lodge trail. Penelope was the daughter of Icarius and wife of Ulysses King of Ithaca.

Rufous vented Chachalaca                            Ortalis ruficauda

Five individuals seen along the road to Camarones on Nov 22nd.

PHASIANIDAE

Crested Bobwhite                                          Colinus cristatus

Three individuals seen crossing the road at the entrance of Camarones on Nov 22nd.

RR Black-fronted Wood-Quail*                   Odontophorus atrifrons

Heard at lodge trail on Nov 24th. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 - 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species qualifies as Vulnerable owing to its small range and population, both of which must be declining in response to habitat loss. The range is small and fragmented with recent records from only one area. The Colombian East Andes have been subject to four centuries of extensive degradation, with progressive deforestation of the lower montane slopes. In Boyacá and Santander, however, where forest loss was gradual until the 1960s and 1970s, some sizeable tracts remain, and habitat is beginning to regenerate owing to land abandonment. The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is threatened by agricultural expansion, logging and burning. On the west slopes, marijuana plantations expanded widely in the 1980s, and were sprayed by the government with herbicides in the early 1990s. The Sierra de Perijá is heavily deforested up to 2,000m, by cattle-ranching at lower elevations and coca cultivation higher up. It is also hunted at least in some parts of its range. VULNERABLE

ARAMIDIDAE

Limpkin                                                                      Aramus guarauna

Five birds seen in bodies of water near the coast.

RALLIDAE .

Gray-necked Wood-Rail                                             Aramides cajanea

One bird seen crossing the road at Camarones

JACANIDAE

Wattled Jacana                                                          Jacana jacana

Several seen along the coast in small ponds.

CHARADRIIDAE

Southern Lapwing                                                       Vanellus chilensis

Two seen flying overhead near Camarones.

Collared Plover                                                          Charadrius collaris

One seen at Camarones near the beach.

Semipalmated Plover                                     Charadrius semipalmatus

One individual seen in the shallow lagoons near the coast at Camarones.

SCOLOPACIDAE

Solitary Sandpiper                                                     Tringa solitaria

One bird seen on Nov 23rd at Camarones.

Lesser Yellowlegs                                                      Tringa flaviceps

One bird seen on Nov 23rd at Camarones

Greater Yellowlegs                                                    Tringa melanoleuca

Several individuals seen along the coast.

Spotted Sandpiper                                                      Actitis macularia

Four individuals seen at the mangrove in Salamanca NP on Nov 22nd.

Willet                                                                          Catoptophorus semipalmatus

Eight individuals seen on the shallow lagoons near the beach at Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Least Sandpiper                                                         Calidris minutilla

Six birds seen in total along the coast.

Western Sandpiper                                                    Calidris mauri

One bird seen on the shallow lagoons near the beach at Camarones.

Stilt Sandpiper                                                            Micropalma himantopus

One individual seen on Nov 23rd at Camarones.

Hudsonian Whimbrel                                    Numenius phaeopus husdonicus

Two individuals seen along the coast on Nov 22nd.  Common at Camerones. Zink et al. (1995) proposed a return to earlier classifications (e.g., Ridgway 1919) that considered New World hudsonicus to be a separate species from Old World populations based on genetic distance. Although plumage pattern also differs substantially, vocalizations are evidently very similar, in contrast to the many allotaxa in the Scolopacidae treated as separate species.

Short-billed Dowitcher                                               Limnodromus griseus

Five individuals seen on the shallow lagoons near the beach at Camarones on Nov 23rd.

RECURVIROSTRIDAE

Black-necked Stilt                                                     Himantopus mexicanus

Several seen along the coast. The SACC says" Himantopus mexicanus was formerly (e.g., Peters 1934, Pinto 1938, Hellmayr & Conover 1948b, Phelps & Phelp 1958a, Vaurie 1965c, Meyer de Schauensee 1970, Blake 1977, Haverschmidt & Mees 1994) considered a subspecies of Old World H. himantopus ("Common Stilt") and was so treated by Dickinson (2003). Some authors have treated southern South American melanurus as a separate species (e.g., Sibley & Monroe 1990, Ridgely & Greenfield 2001). The six taxa in the genus Himantopus form a near-globally distributed superspecies (Mayr & Short 1970, Sibley & Monroe 1990, Pierce 1996), and with from one to six species-level taxa recognized by various authors. Virtually no data are available relevant to taxon-ranking of allopatric populations. The contact between mexicanus and melanurus (White-backed Stilt) in South America, where at least some hybridization occurs, affords one of the best opportunities for such study.

LARIDAE

Laughing Gull                                                 Larus atricilla

More than a dozen individuals seen near the coast at Camarones on nov 23rd.

STERNIDAE

Gull-billed Tern                                                          Sterna (Gelochelidon) nilotica

Three individuals seen near Cienaga along the coast.

Caspian Tern                                                  Sterna (Hydroprogne) caspia

Two individuals seen in total near Cienaga on nov 22nd.

Royal Tern                                                                 Sterna maxima

Common along the coast. Seen on nov 22nd and 23rd.

Sandwich Tern                                                            Sterna sandvicensis

More than 10 individuals seen on a shallow brackish pond near the coast at Camarones. Named after the town of Sandwich in Kent, England

RYNCHOPIDAE

Black Skimmer                                                          Rynchops nigra

One individual seen near the coast at Camarones on nov 23rd.

COLUMBIDAE.

Scaled Dove                                                               Columba speciosa                 

Two seen at Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Common Ground-Dove                                              Columbina passerina

Five seen along the coast. The first at Salamanca on Nov 22nd.

Ruddy Ground-Dove                                     Columbina talpacoti

More than four seen along the coastal road.

Bare-eyed Pigeon                                                      Patagioenas corensis

More than thirty individuals seen near Camaones. Some good scope views. Note that recent research has shown that the genus Columba is paraphyletic, with New World taxa being more closely related to Streptopelia than to Old World Columba pigeons. This is consistent with differences between New World and Old World Columba in terms of morphology, serology and behaviour. The suggestion was made to place all New World forms in the genus Patagioenas, and the AOU recently adopted this change in its latest checklist supplement.

Band-tailed Pigeon                                                     Patagioenas fasciata

Three seen in the upper sections of San Lorenzo Ridge. One of the most widespread New World birds, ranging from Alaska to Argentina. Here the Neotropical form albilinea, which has been regarded by some authors as a full species.

White-tipped Dove                                                     Leptotila verreauxi

Four seen in different locations in the Santa Marta mountains.

PSITTACIDAE

Scarlet-fronted Parakeet                                           Aratinga wagleri

Two seen near Minca on Nov 27th.

Brown-throated Parakeet                                          Aratinga pertinax

Common, more than 30 seen along in the lowlands.

E Santa Marta Parakeet*                                         Pyrrhura viridicata

Heard only in the San Lorenzo ridge in a misty morning. ENDANGERED

Orange-chinned Parakeet                                         Brotogeris jugularis

More than 18 individuals seen in total. Several at Rio Piedra on Nov 23rd.

RR Green-rumped Parrotlet                         Forpus passerinus

Eight individuals seen along the road to Camarones in xerophitic dry scrub.

Red-billed Parrot                                                       Pionus sordidus

Several seen around the El Dorado lodge in Santa Marta Mountains.

Scaly-naped Parrot                                                    Amazona mercenaria

Eleven seen near the antennas of San Lorenzo ridge on Nov 26th.

CUCULIDAE

Squirrel Cuckoo                                                         Piaya cayana

Three seen in the lower elevations of San Lorenzo near Minca.

Smooth-billed Ani                                                       Crotophaga ani

More than five seen on the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Groove- billed Ani                                                      Crotophaga sulcirostris

More than twenty seen along Camarones road. Both species of the Crotophaga genus are here.

Greater Ani                                                                Crotophaga major

Three seen at Salamanca NP on Nov 22nd.

Striped Cuckoo*                                                        Tapera naevia

STRIGIDAE

Santa Marta Screech-Owl                                         Megascops gilesi

E Heard only. Tried several times without luck. After several attempts heard in the distance. This bird is still awaiting a formal description and will be named for Robert Giles who has helped Colombian conservation via ProAves in a big way. Its voice is very different from its congeners

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl                                            Glaucidium brasilianum

One seen on Camarones road calling the attention of other birds.

CAPRIMULGIDAE

Nacunda Nighthawk                                                  Podager nacunda

More than 8 seen along the Camarones road.

Lesser Nighthawk                                                      Chordeiles acutipennis

More than 20 seen at dusk along the Camarones road.

APODIDAE

White-collared Swift                                      Streptoprocne zonaris

Several seen in the lower elevations of the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Blossomcrown

TROCHILIDAE

Sooty-capped Hermit                                     Phaetornis augusti

Two individuals seen on the 25th near Palo Alto.

Long-billed (Western Long-tailed) Hermit Phaethornis longirostris: One individual seen on the lower elevations of the San Lorenzo ridge. This is the form that occurs in Central America, sussurans, as opposed to the one along the coast of Ecuador and extreme north Peru baroni ("Baron's Hermit") The SACC says: Ridgely & Greenfield (2001) considered the subspecies baroni of western Ecuador and northwestern Peru to deserve recognition as a separate species from Phaethornis longirostris based on vocal and plumage differences. SACC proposal to recognize baroni as a separate species did not pass. The IOC calls this species Long-Billed Hermit and says Baron's Hermit Phaethornis baroni is conspecific with Long-billed Hermit P. longirostris (SACC 2004).

Green Violetear                                                         Colibri thalassinus

Several individuals seen in the Santa Marta Mountains, especially around the lodge.

Red-billed Emerald                                                    Chlorostilbon gibsoni

One bird seen on the way to Minca on Nov 27th. Species limits in the mellisugus group of taxa in Chlorostilbon are complex. At one extreme, Zimmer (1950d) and Schuchmann (1999) considered them all conspecific, including the canivetii group of Middle America. Chlorostilbon gibsoni (including nitens) was usually (e.g., Cory 1918, Peters 1945, Meyer de Schauensee 1970) considered a separate species ("Red-billed Emerald") from C. mellisugus, as was C. canivetii. Stiles (1996a) proposed that C. mellisugus should be treated as at least three separate species within South America: melanorhynchus (of western Colombia and Ecuador), gibsoni (northern and central Colombia, NW Venezuela), and mellisugus (rest of South America); this represents a partial return to the classification of Cory (1918) and was followed by Ridgely & Greenfield (2001). Together, these taxa would form a super-species with recently described olivaresi. Sibley & Monroe (1990) considered C. mellisugus to form a superspecies with Middle American Chlorostilbon species but not with C. gibsoni, because the two were thought to be sympatric [are they? breeding?] in the Magdalena Valley, Colombia. SACC proposal passed to follow species limits proposed by Stiles (1996). So the ones you see in the Amazon are Blue-tailed Emeralds

E Coppery Emerald                                                   Chlorostilbon mellisugus

Two individuals seen around the shade grown coffee plantations above Minca. Replaces the former at higher elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains

Violet-crowned Woodnymph                         Thalurania colombica

Several individuals seen daily at El Dorado lodge. We saw the colombica nominate race in the Santa Marta Mountains. Sometimes previously called Purple-crowned Woodnymph but the IOC says Violet-crowned.

E Sapphire-throated Hummingbird               Lepidopyga coeruleogularis

One individual seen at Salamanca NP on Nov 22nd. A tricky bird to see.

Shining-green Hummingbird                          Lepidopyga goudoti

Two individuals seen along the coast.

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird                          Amazilia tzacatl

One individual seen along the coast on nov 22nd.

Steely-vented Hummingbird                          Amazilia saucerrottei

One individual seen on the lower elevations of San Lorenzo ridge near Minca.

Blossomcrown                                                            Anthocephala floriceps

E One male seen several times around the lodge grounds. Beautiful bird! One of the most wanted Colombia birds. VULNERABLE

White-vented Plumeleteer                                         Chalybura buffoni

Two birds seen in total, one outside Tayrona NP on the way to Camarones

White-tailed Starfrontlet                                           Coeligena phalerata

E Two individuals seen on the upper elevations of San Lorenzo ridge on Nov 26th.

Tyrian Metaltail                                                         Metalura tyrianthina

Several individuals seen often at El Dorado lodge feeders. We saw the very distinct and blue-tailed districta, endemic to the Santa Marta and Perijá mountains. This latter may deserve full species status as Santa Marta Tyrian Metaltail.  Named after the color Tyrian purple. Variously known as Royal purple, Tyrian purple, purple of the ancients, this ancient dyestuff, mentioned in texts dating about 1600 BC, was produced from the mucus of the hypobranchial gland of various species of marine molluscs, notably Murex. Although originating in old port of Tyre in modern day Syria (hence the name), man's first large scale chemical industry spread throughout the world. With the decline of the Roman Empire, the use of the dye also declined and large scale production ceased with the fall of Constantinople in 1453. It was replaced by other cheaper dyes like lichen purple and madder.

E Santa Marta Woodstar                                          Chaetocercus astreans

One male seen on Nov 27th at the beginning of the African Bee trail. Can easily be missed.

TROGONIDAE

White-tipped Quetzal                                     Pharomacrus fulgidus

One individual seen near the lagoon nearby the antennas on Nov 26th.

Masked Trogon                                                         Trogon personatus

One bird seen on Nov 26th along the San Lorenzo ridge.

ALCEDINIDAE

Ringed kingfisher                                                      Megaceryle torquata

More than 15 individuals seen along the coast. Megaceryle torquata and M. alcyon have been placed in the genus Ceryle in many classifications (e.g., Meyer de Schauensee 1970, AOU 1983, 1998), but most classifications have followed Fry (1980) in restricting Ceryle to Old World C. rudis (e.g., Sibley & Monroe 1990, Fry & Fry 1992, Woodall 2001). Recent genetic data (Moyle 2006) indicate that Old World Ceryle rudis is the sister to Chloroceryle, and so Megaceryle must be recognized if Chloroceryle is maintained as a genus.

Green Kingfisher                                                       Chloroceryle americana

One individual seen along the Camarones road on Nov 22nd.

MOMOTIDAE

Blue-crowned Motmot                                               Momotus momota

One individual seen by some members of the group.

GALBULIDAE

Rufous-tailed Jacamar                                              Galbula ruficauda

Three individuals seen on Nov 23rd on the way to Camarones.

BUCCONIDAE

RR Russet-throated Puffbird                                    Hypnelus ruficollis

Three birds seen in total, first one spotted by Mark at a police checkpoint. The SACC says - although Cory (1919) and Peters (1948) considered the subspecies bicinctus to be a separate species from Hypnelus ruficollis, Meyer de Schauensee (1966, 1970) considered them conspecific, evidently <check> on the basis that the subspecies described by Phelps & Phelps (1958) was intermediate between the two, and because another population was also considered intermediate. Rasmussen & Collar (2002) considered bicinctus (with stoicus) as a separate species from H. ruficollis; they reported that hybridization in area of contact was infrequent and certainly not indicative of free interbreeding, as is often stated or implied (e.g., Sibley & Monroe 1990). Restall 2006 separates the two species.

RAMPHASTIDAE

Keel-billed Toucan                                                     Ramphastos sulphuratus

Four birds seen in total in different sites at the San Lorenzo ridge.

E Santa Marta Toucanet                                           Aulacorhynchus lautus

Five birds seen in total uphill from El Dorado lodge. The SACC says - Ridgely & Greenfield (2001) suggested that Aulacorhynchus prasinus (Emerald Toucanet) may consist of more than one species-level taxon, but see Short & Horne (2001), who pointed out that the allopatric taxa are no more distinctive than those known to intergrade. The subspecies lautus, albivitta, cyanolaemus, dimidiatus, and atrogularis, as well as Middle American wagleri and caeruleogularis, were formerly (e.g., Ridgway 1914, Cory 1919) each considered separate species from (and in some cases not particularly closely related to) Aulacorhynchus prasinus, but Peters (1948) and Haffer (1974) treated them all as conspecific. Navarro et al. (2001) say Patterns of variation support recognition of four species in Mesoamerica: A. wagleri in western Mexico, A. prasinus in eastern Mexico and northern Central America, A. caeruleogularis in Costa Rica and western Panama, and A. cognatus in eastern Panama, as well as several additional forms (A. lautus - Santa Marta Mountains, A. albivitta - Andes of Colombia and Ecuador and A. nigrogularis -Peru and North Bolivia) in South America. The IOC presents Grey-throated and White-throated as potential splits and if accepted the former would become a Colombian endemic.

RR Yellow-billed Toucanet                                       Aulacorhynchus calorhynchus

Several individuals seen below El Dorado lodge. The SACCC says- The taxon calorhynchus was formerly (e.g., Cory 1919, Peters 1948, Phelps & Phelps 1958a, Meyer de Schauensee 1970) treated as a separate species ("Yellow-billed Toucanet") from Aulacorhynchus sulcatus (Groove-billled Toucanet), but in their area of contact in Venezuela, only individuals with intermediate bill characters are found (Schwartz 1972b); still treated as separate species by Hilty (2003) and Restall (2006)

Collared Araçari                                                        Pteroglossus torquatus

One individual seen below El Dorado lodge on Nov 25th. In Greek Pteroglossus means "feathertongued" a refernece to the slim feather-like tongues of toucans and aracaris.

PICIDAE

Red-crowned Woodpecker                                        Melanerpes rubricapillus

Five individual seen in total along the coast.

Golden-olive Woodpecker                                         Piculus rubiginosus

One individual seen on Nov 26th on the upper sections of San Lorenzo ridge.

Crimson-crested Woodpecker                                  Campephilus melanoleucos

Three individuals seen at El Dorado lodge on a dead tree trunk on Nov 24th.    

FURNARIIDAE

RR Caribbean (Pale-legged) Hornero                      Furnarius (leucopus) longirostris

Heard several times near Camarones. The SACC says: The sub-species longirostris was treated as a separate species by Ridgely & Greenfield (2001) and Hilty (2003). Although vocal and behavioral differences have been reported, no real analysis has been published to support this split. Restal (2007) treats this taxon as part of Pale-legged Hornero

RR White-whiskered Spinetail                                 Synallaxis candei

Nine individuals seen in total along the road to Camarones. Fantastic bird! Named after the French Admiral de Cande a naval explorer in the mid 19th century

E Rusty-headed Spinetail                                          Synallaxis fuscorufa

Two individuals seen in total on the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge.

Streak-capped Spinetail  

E Streak-capped Spinetail                                         Cranioleuca hellmaryi

Several individuals seen foraging in the canopy on several consecutive days. Another localized spinetail (endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains and specimens have just been found from the Sierra de Perijá)

Spotted Barbtail                                                         Premnoplex brunnescens

One bird seen in the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge on Nov 26th.

Montane Foliage-gleaner                                          Anabacerthia striaticollis

Seven individuals seen in total foraging with mixed flocks in the San Lorenzo ridge.

Gray-throated Leaftosser                                         Sclerurus albigularis

One incredible view of this furnarid tossing leaves on the forest floor on Nov 27th.

Streaked Xenops                                                       Xenops rutilans

Three birds seen in total foraging with mixed flocks around El Dorado lodge

DENDROCOLAPTIDAE

Strong-billed Woodcreeper                                     Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus

Two individuals seen in the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge. Big bird. We saw the endemic sanctaemartae subspecies.

Montane Woodcreeper                                             Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger

Several individuals seen around the El Dorado lodge. Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger was formerly (e.g., Peters 1951, Meyer de Schauensee 1970, AOU 1983, 1998, Sibley & Monroe 1990) considered conspecific with Middle American L. affinis (Spot-crowned Woodcreeper), but recent treatments (e.g., Ridgely & Tudor 1994, Hilty 2003) usually follow Cory & Hellmayr (1925), Zimmer (1934c), and Phelps & Phelps (1950a) in treating them as separate species. Their vocalizations differ strongly, although a formal analysis has not been published; they constitute a superspecies

THAMNOPHILIDAE

Black-crested Antshrike                                           Sakesphorus canadensis

Seven individuals seen in total along the coast. The ones in the mangroves are rather different looking birds (unnamed subspecies) in the desert along the Guajira peninsular. This taxon needs revision and several species are probably involved.

Long-tailed Antbird                                                    Drymophilla longicauda

One individual seen near Minca on Nov 27th.

Northern White-fringed Antwren                              Formicivora intermedia

Four birds seen in total along the coast and foothills of San Lorenzo ridge. On the Guajira Peninsular (intermedia). Ridgely & Tudor (1994) and Zimmer & Isler (2003) suggested that Formicivora grisea (Southern White-fringed Antwren e.g. Bolivia.) may consist of more than one species. Hilty (2003) described major vocal differences between intermedia and grisea and suggested two species were involved.

GRALLARIDAE

Santa Marta Antpitta                                                Grallaria bangsi

E Two individuals seen on the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge. The second individual came right into our feet! The world population is not known but is thought to be decreasing. This species has been up listed to Vulnerable because new information suggests that it has a small range, which is fragmented and declining owing to habitat destruction caused by illegal agriculture, logging and burning. It is currently described as common, but its population size is unknown. However, it is likely to be undergoing a rapid decline as a result of habitat loss. Named after Outram Bangs US ornithologist and author. VULNERABLE

E Rufous (Santa Marta) Antpitta                             Grallaria rufula spatiator

One individual seen well through a hole in the bamboo near the top of San Lorenzo ridge on Nov 26th. Now keep an eye on these "Rufous" Antpittas as there are many species involved. This one at Santa Marta will become an endemic and the paper is in progress.

Rusty-breasted Antpitta                                            Grallaricula rufipectus

One bird seen hopping along some tangled vines below El Dorado lodge. Here the nominate race. Birds south of the Maranon River in Peru are probably a separate species (leymeybambae)

RHINOCRYPTIDAE

Santa Marta Tapaculo                                               Scytalopus sanctamartae

E Three individuals seen in total below El Dorado lodge on Nov 25th.

E Brown rumped Tapaculo                                        Scytalopus latebricola

Another Santa Marta endemic, replacing the Santa Marta Tapaculo at higher elevations One individual seen briefly near the Santa Marta Antpitta spot on Nov 26th.

White-throated Tyrannulet                                        Mecocerculus leucophrys

Three birds seen with a mixed flock near the antennas on San Lorenzo ridge. We saw the subspecies montensis which is  endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains.

COTINGIDAE

Golden-breasted Fruiteater                                       Pipreola aureopectus

Common along the San Lorenzo ridge near El Dorado lodge. . Here the race decora, endemic to this mountain range

TYRANNIDAE

RR Venezuelan Tyrannulet                                       Zimmerius improbus

Three individuals seen around Palo Alto and seen well to be identified.

Olive-striped Flycatcher                                            Mionectes olivaceous

Five birds seen in total around El Dorado lodge. Very distinctive race.

Northern Scrub Flycatcher                                        Sublegatus arenarum

Common along the coastal scrub. Seven individuals seen in total.

Slender-billed Inezia                                      Inezia tenuirostris

Six birds seen in total. One nest found along the road to Camarones. Note that the tarsal morphology of Inezia has been interpreted to indicate that it belongs in the Cotingidae! Note the IOC uses "Inezia" for the vulgar name

Black-throated Tody-Tyrant                         Hemitriccus granadensis

One individual seen in El Dorado lodge surroundings on Nov 26th.

Common Tody-Flycatcher                                         Todirostrum cinereum

One individual seen at the Mangrove stand at Salamanca NP on Nov 22nd.

White-throated Spadebill                                           Platyrinchus mystaceus

One bird seen along the trail behind el Dorado lodge on nov 24th.

Cinnammon Flycatcher                                              Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus

Common in the Santa Marta montains.

Vermillion Flycatcher                                                Pyrocephalus rubinus

Four individuals seen in total in open areas.

E Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant                         Myotheretes pernix

One bird seen perched at eye level on the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge. The world population is estimated at 1,000 - 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This species has a very small range and is currently known from just one location (although there are likely to be others). Its habitat is declining, and concomitant declines in range and population are inferred. ENDANGERED

Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant                           Ochtoeca diadema

Two birds seen near the antennas of San Lorenzo in chusquea bamboo on Nov 26th. The subspecies jesupi is endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains

Cattle Tyrant                                                              Machetornis rixosa

Five individuals seen on top of some goats near Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Social Flycatcher                                                        Myiozetetes similis

Common along the coast

Great Kiskadee                                                         Pitangus sulphuratus

Common along the coast.

Golden-crowned Flycatcher                           Myiodynastes chrysocephalus

Seen almost everyday around the El Dorado lodge grounds.

Boat-billed Flycatcher                                               Megarynchus pitangua

Seen in the foothills of the Santa Marta mountains.

Tropical Kingbird                                                       Tyrannus melancholicus

Common bird of the neotropics.

Gray Kingbird                                                            Tyrannus dominiscensis

Very common along the coast.

RR Venezuelan Flycatcher                                       Myarchus venezuelensis

One individual seen at Salamanca NP on Nov 22nd.

Panama Flycatcher                                                    Myarchus panamensis

Three individuals seen on total along the road to Camarones.

HIRUNDINIDAE

Bank Swallow                                                            Riparia riparia

Twelve individuals seen on Nov 23rd along the coast. Note the IOC has rejected the Euopean "Sand Martin" and Bank Swallow it is - makes sense.

Southern Rough-winged Swallow                              Stelgidopterix ruficollis

Several seen on the lower sections of the Sta Marta Mountains.

Barn Swallow                                                  Hirundo rustica

Three individuals seen along the coast on Nov 22nd. The New World populations of Hirundo rustica were formerly (e.g., Ridgway 1904) treated as a separate species, H. erythrogastra, from Old World populations.

Grey-breasted Martin                                               Progne chalybea

Common along the coast.

CORVIDAE

RR Black-chested Jay                                              Cyanocorax affinis

Several seen around El Dorado lodge in the Santa Marta mountains.

TROGLODYTIDAE

House Wren                                                               Troglodytes aedon

Common, seen almost every day in the Sta. Marta Mountains. Many authors (e.g., Hellmayr 1934, Pinto 1944, Phelps & Phelps 1950a) formerly treated Neotropical mainland populations as a separate species T. musculus; see also Brumfield and Capparella (1996); this treatment was followed by Brewer (2001) and Kroodsma & Brewer (2005). The Falklands population, T. a. cobbi, might also be best treated as a species (Wood 1993), as was done by Brewer (2001), Mazar Barnett & Pearman (2001), Jaramillo (2003), and Kroodsma & Brewer (2005);

Bicolored Wren                                                          Campylorhynchus griseus

Five individuals seen in total along the coast of this interesting species.

RR Rufous-breasted Wren                                       Pheugopedius rutilus

Two individuals seen above Minca in the Sta. Marta mountains on Nov 27th.

Gray-breasted Wood-Wren                          Henicorhina leucophrys leucophrys

Heard several times and only one individual seen on Nov 25th.

POLIOPTIDAE

Tropical Gnatcatcher                                     Polioptila plumbea

Four individuals seen on Nov 23rd on the road to Camarones in dry xerophitic scrub.

TURDIDAE

Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush                            Catharus aurantiirostris

Heard only in the Sta. Marta mountains.

Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush                             Catharus fuscater

Two individuals seen in total along the trail behind El Dorado lodge.

Swainson`s Thrush                                                     Catharus ustulatus

Two birds seen in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Great Thrush                                                  Turdus fuscater

Two individuals seen on the upper sections of San Lorenzo ridge on the Sta. Marta Mountains on Nov 26th.

Black-hooded Thrush                                                Turdus olivater

Several individuals seen around El Dorado lodge grounds.

Clay-colored Thrush                                      Turdus grayi

One bird seen on the El Prado Hotel grounds in Barranquilla.

Pale-breasted Thrush                                                Turdus leucomelas

Two birds seen in total around El Dorado lodge on the Sta. Marta Mountains.

VIREONIDAE

Brown-capped Vireo                                      Vireo leucophrys

Common in the San Lorenzo ridge with mixed flocks.

Scrub Greenlet                                                           Hylophilus flaviceps

Two birds seen along the road to Camarones on nov 23rd. Very vocal.

MIMIDAE

Tropical Mockingbird                                                Mimus gilvus

Common along the coast, specially on the road to Camarones.

PARULIDAE

Black & White Warbler                                            Mniotilta varia

Several seen with mixed flocks along the San Lorenzo ridge.

Golden-Winged Warbler                                           Vermivora chrysoptera

One individual seen briefly in the lower sections of the San Lorenzo ridge on Nov 24th. NEAR THREATENED

Tennessee Warbler                                                   Vermivora peregrina

Several seen in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Tropical Parula                                                           Parula pitiayumi

One bird seen around El Dorado lodge on Nov. 24th.

Yellow Warbler                                                          Dendroica petechia

Two individuals seen in Salamanca NP on Nov 23rd.

Blackburnian Warbler                                               Dendroica fusca

Common in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Blackpoll Warbler                                                      Dendroica striata

One individual seen on Nov 23rd along the coast.

American Redstart                                                    Setophaga ruticilla

Two males seen in the lower sections of the San Lorenzo ridge.

Northern Waterthrush                                               Seiurus noveboracensis

One individual seen in the mangroves of Salamanca NP on Nov 22nd.

Prothonotary Warbler                                                Protonotaria citrea

Common in the mangroves along the coast. Seen in Salamanca and Camarones.

Mourning Warbler                                                     Oporornis philadelphia

One individual seen near Minca on Nov 27th.

Slate-throated Whitestart                                          Myioborus miniatus

Very common around El Dorado lodge in the Sta Marta mountains

E Yellow-crowned Whitestart                                    Myioborus flavivertex

Six individuals seen in the upper sections of San Lorenzo ridge. Beautiful Whitestart! Slightly atypical for a Myioborus whitestart, being somewhat slow and deliberate in its movements and almost (Basileuterus) warbler-like in appearance.

E White-lored Warbler                                              Basileuterus conspicillatus

Common in the upper sections of San Lorenzo ridge in the Sta Marta mountains. It is relatively common in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, where it inhabits humid montane forest, forest borders and well-developed second growth and shade-coffee plantations at 450-2,200m, where it forages at low to mid-levels, principally in the under growth and understorey. It appears tolerant of a degree of habitat degradation. All remaining forest in the Santa Marta Mountains is seriously threatened by agricultural expansion, logging and burning. Only 15% of the sierra's vegetation is unaltered, with the south-east slope extensively deforested, and the west slope, between 800 and 1,600m, largely cleared for coffee and illegal marijuana plantations. NEAR THREATENED

Rufous-capped Warbler                                            Basileuterus rufifrons

Two individuals seen near Minca on Nov 27th. The delatrii group of subspecies, from Guatemala south to northwestern South America, was formerly (e.g., Hellmayr 1935) treated as separate species from the Basileuterus rufifrons of (mainly) Mexico, but they evidently intergrade in Guatemala and Honduras (Monroe 1968, AOU 1983).

E Santa Marta Warbler                                             Basileuterus basilicus

Three birds seen near the antennas in the upper sections of San Lorenzo ridge on Nov 26th. Another Warbler endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains, which is quite tricky to see. A large, slow and aberrant species, that perhaps does not belong in Basileuterus - it was formerly placed in Hemispingus! It is likely to have undergone a rapid and continuing decline. VULNERABLE

THRAUPIDAE

Crimson-backed Tanager                                          Ramphocelus dimidiatus

The common tanager of open areas, seen in the lower elevations of the Sta. Marta Mountains.

RR Glaucous Tanager                                               Thraupis glaucocolpa

Six individuals seen in total along the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd. Limited range in Venezuela and Colombia

Blue-gray Tanager                                                     Thraupis episcopus

Several individuals seen in the lower elevations of the Sta. Marta Mountains. The scientific name is derived from the ‘episcopal blue' plumage.

Palm Tanager                                                 Thraupis palmarum

Two birds seen along the coast on Nov 22nd.

Blue-capped Tanager                                                Thraupis cyanocephala

Several individuals seen in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Santa Marta Mountain Tanager                               Anisognathus melanogenys

E Eight individuals seen in total in the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge.

Bay-headed Tanager                                     Tangara gyrola toddi

Common in the Sta. Marta Mountains. This race has all green under-parts. The name ‘gyrola' is derived from the Latin ‘gyros', or ring, and refers to the golden nuchal collar present in most races of this species.

Black-capped Tanager                                              Tangara heinei

Common in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Black-headed Tanager                                              Tangara cyanoptera

One individual seen near Minca in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Summer Tanager                                                       Piranga rubra

One male seen on Nov 25th along the San Lorenzo ridge.

Hepatic Tanager                                                        Piranga flava

Two males seen on Nov 24th and Nov 26th on the upper sections of the San Lorenzo ridge

White-sided Flower-Piercer                           Diglossa albilatera

Common around El Dorado lodge grounds.

RR Trinidad Euphonia                                               Euphonia trinitatis

Two individuals seen on Nov 23rd on the road to Camarones.

Blue-naped Chlorophonia                                          Chlorophonia cyanea

Common in the Santa Marta Mountains.

COERBIDAE

Bananaquit                                                                 Coereba flaveola

Two individuals seen along the coast at Salamanca NP on Nov 23rd.

EMBERIZIDAE

Dull-colored Grassquit                                              Tiaris obscurus

Several individuals seen around El Dorado lodge every day.

Bicolored Conebill                                                     Conirostrum bicolor

More than ten individuals seen in the mangroves of the Salamanca NP on Nov 23rd.

Rufous-collared Sparrow                                           Zonotrichia capensis

Common in the Sta. Marta Mountains.

Blue-black Grassquit                                     Volatinia jacarina

Seen in different locations of the tour.

Yellow-bellied Seedeater                                           Sporophila nigricollis

Three birds seen near Minca on Nov 27th.

Gray Seedeater                                                          Sporophila intermedia

Three individuals seen along the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Ruddy-breasted Seedeater                                       Sporophila minuta

One pair seen along the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd

Large-billed Seed-Finch                                            Oryzoborus crassirostris

One pair seen near Minca before a strong rain on Nov 27th

Santa Marta Brush-Finch                                          Atlapetes melanocpehalus

E Very common around El Dorado lodge in the Sta Marta Mountains

Stripe-Headed Brush-Finch                           Buarremon brunneinucha

One individual seen in El Dorado lodge grounds on Nov 26th. The ones here have black breast bands but other subspecies do not.. More than one species are likely involved.

Lesser Goldfinch                                                        Carduelis psaltria

Three individuals seen near Minca on Nov 27th.

View from El Dorado Lodge  

FRINGILLIDAE

Southern Yellow-Grosbeak                                       Pheucticus chrysogaster

One bird seen above El Dorado lodge on Nov 26th.

Buff-throated Saltator                                               Saltator maximus

Two individuals seen on the lower sections of the Sta Marta Mountains on Nov 27th.

Greyish Saltator                                                         Saltator coerulescens

One individual seen on the lower sections of the Sta Marta Mountains on Nov 27th.

RR Orinocan Saltator                                                Saltator orenocensis

Five seen along the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Streaked Saltator                                                       Saltator striatipectus

Two birds seen along the coast on Nov 23rd.

RR Vermillion Cardinal                                             Cardinalis phoeniceus

Three females seen well at Camarones. One male briefly seen on Nov 23rd.

Rose-breasted Grosbeak                                          Pheucticus ludovicianus

Several seen along the Sta. Marta mountains.

ICTERIDAE

Crested Oropendola                                                  Psarocolius decumanus

More than six individuals seen in the lower sections of the Santa Marta Mountains.

Great-tailed Grackle                                     Quiscalis mexicanus

Common along the coast.

Yellow-backed Oriole                                                Icterus chrysater

Four individuals seen in total along the coast.

Yellow Oriole                                                  Icterus nigrogularis

Three individuals seen on the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd.

Northern (Baltimore) Oriole                         Icterus galbula

One individual seen on the road to Camarones on Nov 23rd. 

    

Exploratory Trip to the Santa Marta Mountains of Colombia – November 21-28, 2008

Text Box:

We all arrived safely on direct flights from Miami in Barranquilla, the fourth largest city in Colombia, on Friday night. At 7:21 am on Saturday while driving out of Barranquilla, at an unscheduled police stop, we got our first good bird – a Russet-throated Puffbird, thanks to Mark. On the drive east to Salamanca, our first destination, we also had the ubiquitous Rock Pigeon, and Great and Cattle Egrets. But we also had our first Striated Heron and Osprey.

Salamanca proved to be an excellent introduction to lowland forest, off a very busy main road, and although it conserves mangrove forest, it was surprisingly rich in birds. We saw our first Bicolored Wren – wow – now that is a wren, Northern Waterthrush, a couple of Bicolored Conebills, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, male and female Black-crested Antshrike, several Brown-throated Parakeets, a very obliging Lesser Nighthawk, two Sapphire-throated Hummingbirds and a Common (Mangrove – soon to be re-lumped) Black-Hawk.

Closer to Santa Marta we passed through extensive roadside wetlands where we got good looks at Roseate Spoonbill, Wattled Jacana, three White-cheeked Pintail, Blue-winged Teal, and the first of many Crested Caracara. Just past Santa Marta we ventured up the road to the antennas on San Lorenzo ridge and our lodge, the El Dorado. We saw several Red-crowned Woodpeckers, a pair of White-fringed Antbirds, a Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant, quite a find, and an endemic Shining-green Hummingbird.

Then it was on along the Caribbean coast to Riohacha with a lunch stop at a restaurant near the Los Estoraques Natural Area where we got White-vented Plumeleteer, a pair of Orange-chinned Parakeet building a nest in a termite nest, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Pale-legged Hornero, King Vulture that few flew over the road, and Ruddy Ground-Dove.

In the late afternoon we got to Camarones NP where we saw Bare-eyed Pigeon, an endemic, we also saw Cattle Tyrant, Tropical Mockingbird, four fantastic White-whiskered Spinetail (our favorite spinetail of the trip!); we also got poor looks at an Orinoco Saltator and Rufous-vented Chachalaca and great views of Nacunda Nighthawks; we also heard a Crested Bobwhite.

Sunday morning, November 23, after a night at Riohacha we drove again on the road through Camarones NP that terminates at Los Flamencos Wildlife Sanctuary. Birding was steady and good throughout the morning – we found a Slender-billed Tyrannulet on a nest with one egg in it right over the road. We also got Scrub Greenlet, two Gray Kingbirds, and a glimpse of a Gray-necked Wood-Rail that ran across the road in front of us. We got much better looks of an Orinoco Saltator, and saw a Baltimore Oriole – a lifer for Renzo- our local guide. We located a Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl that was being mobbed by several Black-crested Antshrikes, White-fringed Antbirds, Prothonotary Warbler, Northern Scrub-Flycatcher, and a much needed Glaucous Tanager. We also got good looks at several Trinidad Euphonias, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater, several female Vermilion Cardinals, and a fleeting glance of a Black-billed Cuckoo. Further along the road, a Peregrine flew over and a Rufous-tailed Jacamar was feeding in the nearby thickets.

On the road to the beach, we got lots of herons including Great, Snowy and Cattle Egrets and shorebirds including Lesser Yellowlegs, Solitary Sandpiper, Willet, Black Skimmer, Short-billed Dowitcher, Stilt Sandpiper, Sandwich Tern and a Collared Plover. In the village we also got several Cattle Tyrants and had a great lunch of fish and beer on the beach.

Running a little late and with rain showers in the area, we drove back along the coast and took the road to Minca where we exchanged vehicles for two 4x4 vehicles. And oh did we need these – the road from Minca to the fantastic El Dorado lodge (at 2000 m) is one of the worst roads that many of us have every been on. But it was through amazing and incredible scenery. We even got a Keel-billed Toucan, Crested Oropendola, a heard only Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush and an American Redstart on the way. After a great evening meal we retired early to bed.

After a late breakfast at 5:15 am on Monday, we headed up the road toward San Lorenzo ridge. But not before we got lots and lots of Blue-naped Chlorophonias at the lodge feeders. Although overcast and occasionally wet, along the road we did locate some good birds including: easy to see Golden-breasted Fruiteaters, Black-capped Tanagers, two Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, the endemic Streak-capped Spinetail, and two of the three endemic warblers – the Yellow-crowned Whitestart and White-lored Warbler – a great start to our endemic list. Returning to the lodge we also got poor looks at another endemic – the Rusty-headed Spinetail, so we had all the endemic spinetails on the first day’s birding in the Santa Marta Mtns. We also got the endemic sub-species of the Emerald Toucanet, and the endemic tanager – the Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager.

After a great lunch we headed lower and got Mountain Elaenia. In the late afternoon around 4 pm, we explored the lodge trail and Mark saw two regionally-endemic Band-tailed Guans and he and Renzo heard a pair of Black-fronted Wood-Quail. The group did get a White-throated Spadebill and saw three Black-chested Jays. Back at the lodge while relaxing before dinner we watched the feeders and flocks going through the lodges garden and got great looks of Pale-breasted Thrush and the endemic Santa Marta Brush-Finch.

Again, on Tuesday we tried going up the road but the wet conditions led us to re-trace our steps and we headed down to the Palo Alto Farm at 1700 m birding slowly all the way. A couple of us got a Black-headed Tanager, unfortunately the only one of the trip. As a group, all of us got the following: a nice Black-hooded Thrush, Collared Aracari, Swainson’s Thrush, Summer Tanager, and another endemic – the Santa Marta Tapaculo – and we had incredible looks of what is not your typically shy Tapaculo. Just below where we found the Tapaculo we found the localized Rusty-breasted Antpitta calling from 4 ft up a small shrub. It was incredible to see an Antpitta up a tree! We also found a Sooty-capped Hermit and another Keel-billed Toucan – which everybody saw this time. Returning towards the lodge we also found a Venezuelan Tyrannulet and three Groove-billed Aracari. After dinner we tried for the endemic and newly-described screech-owl – the Santa Marta Screech-Owl. Sadly we only heard three distant hoots.

Finally third time lucky – the early morning started clear and we ventured up the road nearly all the way to the antennas and the wax palm forest at 2650 m. We saw Scaly-naped Parrots on a tree, an unusual sight, the endemic and incredible White-tailed Starfrontlet – for many the highlight of the trip. We also saw a fleeting glimpse of the endemic White-tipped Quetzal, poor looks at another endemic Tapaculo – the Brown-rumped Tapaculo, and great looks at the endemic sub-species of Rufous Antpitta, this is sure to be split. Back down the road a couple of 100 m, we also got our third and last endemic warbler – the Santa Marta Warbler. We also had Spotted Barbtail, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant and Strong-billed Woodcreeper just within the wax palm eco-tone. Lower down in the fog, we also heard several distant endemic Santa Marta Parakeets and saw another endemic - the Santa Marta Antpitta. We also got another localized species – the Blossomcrown, and the highly localized but widespread – Black-throated Tody-Tyrant. Back at the lodge we also got the local sub-species of Masked Trogon and Stripe-headed Brush-Finch.

Finally our last day birding arrived – we ventured down the lodge trail again and were rewarded with great looks of a Gray-throated Leaftosser. After saying our farewells to the wonderful staff at the El Dorado Lodge we started back down the road. At our first stop, several of us got looks at another endemic – the Santa Marta Woodstar. A little lower we got a Coppery Emerald and Steely-vented Hummingbird, and even lower within the coffee-growing zone we got several Lesser Goldfinch, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, and Black-billed Seed Finch. In a much degraded environment we also got Mourning Warbler, Rufous-capped Warbler and Long-tailed Antbird. Our bird of this area was a very obliging Rufous-breasted Wren. Having taken our time coming down the mountain, we were caught in a torrential tropical downpour and got stuck above a landslide. We all safely crossed the landslide leaving our El Dorado drivers, guides and vehicles above while we hired a local to take us down to the main highway. A stop for air, for Simon, got us one more endemic – the Red-billed Emerald and we also heard Scarlet-fronted Parakeets.

It was a great trip – we saw or heard most of the Santa Marta endemics that are easily accessible.

We have already reserved our next Santa Marta trip – it’ll run in early January 2010. Hope you can join us.

Mark Welford


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