Birds and Mammals seen
on our Venture to
Western Ecuador

March 9 - 21, 2009

                                                                                               

A brief synopsis:

Western Ecuador is hardly on the regular birding trail; actually not even on the regular tourist trail, but despite that fact, this was a fascinating trip to a fairly remote part of the country- well to start with anyway. Driving out of Quito into the lowlands involves driving past so many good birds and great birding locations – but that’s another trip and another time. But we have to stop and at least see a few of the highland and mid-elevation species that we won’t see again on trip. Even such common birds as Rufous-collared Sparrow, Great Thrush and Sparkling Violet-ear would be missed. As we left town we did indeed stop for the aforementioned species, as well as Brown-bellied Swallow, Band-tailed Seedeater and a miscellany of other fairly common roadside species. We had to stop at the Mindo Loma for hummer feeders where the selection including some wonderful ones, such as Empress Brilliant, Purple-throated Woodstar and the incredible Velvet-Purple Coronet. The feeders at Los Bancos had a different gang of occupants including Green-crowned Brilliant as well as some fruit feeders with a handful of tanagers coming in to feed. Rio Canande Lodge is not often visited but I am sure will soon have its place on the birding circuit. There are some wonderful birds there, although some are very difficult to track down, such as Banded Ground Cuckoo. Needless to say we did not see it, but some or all of us saw Black-tipped Cotinga, Lita Woodpecker, Scarlet-and-white Tanager and Esmeraldas Antbird as well as other localized Choco endemics. The trails were steep and muddy, especially the l-o-n-g hike up to the mirador. In other words the potential is excellent for future birding, despite the length of time it takes to get there and the dreadful roads. Our drive to Rio Palenque was long through lots of rain, but the scenery in many parts of the lowlands is pretty monotonous with endless fields of agriculture. The research station is set in one of the few remaining patches of rich forest in this part of the country, and the birding was superb. Like all “islands”, the larger birds, such as Tinamous and raptors tend to disappear first due to space constraints and this has been happening here too. We managed 2 walks around the trails with some good results; some of the best birds being Red-billed Scythebill, Orange-fronted Barbet, and Collared Trogon. Our drive to Mantaraya Lodge the next day was long, actually very long, but a stop at the Ramsar wetlands at La Segua produced some birds we would not have seen otherwise. As well as a selection of ducks and wading birds, the best was a Fork-tailed Flycatcher which may have been the first record for the province of Manabi. Dinner was on the road with a beer, some tasty pastries and potato chips to break the late arrival at our hotel.

One word can describe Isla de la Plata – HOT! The birding was pretty good with close views of both Red-footed and Blue-footed Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebird and a limited selection of landbirds. Shade was important as was drinking as much as possible to stay hydrated as we kept up with our guide. The day got more interesting when one of our outboard motors ceased working on our way back to the mainland. Thankfully we made it!! The western coastline of Ecuador is arid with dry thickets and coastal forests with a very distinct avifauna and our visit to Machalilla NP was very birdy- especially early in the morning when the activity did not seem to slow down. King Vultures and Swallow-tailed Kites flew overhead, and we found Ecuadorian Trogon, Blue-crowned Motmot, Scarlet-backed Woodpecker, Necklaced Spinetail, Collared Antshrike and the very uncommon Saffron Siskin. After a visit to Rio Ayampe in the late afternoon and the combined dry heat of the day, some of us enjoyed the pool back at the hotel that evening. Rio Ayampe is one of the sites for the endangered Esmeraldas Woodstar which alas we did not see. Also the Watkins’ Antpitta stayed hidden in the tickets (what’s new?) but most of us did get views of the White-backed (Pacific) Fire-eye.

The Santa Elena Peninsula sticks out into the Pacific Ocean and is even drier than Machalilla. Vast salt pans line the coast making a haven for migratory and wintering shorebirds. Our local guide, Ben Haase, was enthusiastic and knowledgeable about ECUASAL and its importance for migratory shorebirds; his marine mammal museum was most informative as well. Then it was off to Guayaquil, with stops along the way for Snowy-throated Kingbird and White-tailed Jay. Cerro Blanco is a private preserve just outside Guayaquil, protecting excellent dry and semi-moist forest. It’s always very bird-rich place and today was no exception. Gray-cheeked Parakeets were easy to see and this seems to be one of the best places to see Gray-and-gold Warbler. Its high pitched song is a common sound of the forest, but the bird can be very elusive. Thankfully we tracked one down that posed and preened for us- wonderful! Another highlight had to be the tightly coiled Fer-de-Lance that we all walked past!

Another surprise was the attractiveness of the Malecon along the waterfront in Guayaquil. It made for a very pleasant, if hot, walk. It was here that we got the only Great-tailed Grackles of the trip, quite a surprise. Plus the colony of Yellow-crowned Night-Herons seemed to be tolerated by the park department and indeed they were cleaning up the debris with high powered water hoses while we were there. Our last stop of the trip was Buenaventura, the fairly new Jocotoco Foundation reserve a few hours south of Guayaquil. Despite the rain, often torrential at times, the wealth of birdlife in the roadside wetlands is always quite a show. As well as the normal blizzard of waterbirds, there were large numbers of Snail Kites, a few Savanna Hawks as well as several Horned Screamers at Manglares Preserve. Because of the traffic, it’s always very difficult to stop and enjoy these rare birds and we have to be satisfied with slowing down and craning our necks over the grasses. Buenaventura is a beautiful place with a somewhat limited trail system, but it’s almost as pleasant just sitting on the porch watching the hummer feeders- a great show. The trails were very muddy but despite that fact, we all managed pretty good views of our target bird, the Long-wattled Umbrellabird. Thankfully we could then stick to the roads rather than head back down the steep muddy trails and birding the roads was fairly profitable. Highlights included both White-bearded and Club-winged Manakins, Rufous-throated Tanager and the rare Gray-backed Hawk. Overall, nothing could compete with the hummer show and the outstanding food- easily the best anywhere on our tour. It was back to Guayaquil in yet more rain- with flooded roads on our way into the city – very impressive but it scuppered our chances of looking for Chestnut-collared Swallows under the bridge- another time. We finished the tour with about 382 species- quite impressive for a new birding area

Itinerary

March 9           Arrived in Quito – Drove to Rio Canande with stops at Mindo Loma and Los Bancos

March 10         Rio Canande and long all day hike to Mirador

March 11         Rio Canande- Botrosa Road all day

March 12         Rio Canande (Manakin Trail) and drove to Rio Palenque

March 13         Trails at Rio Palenque and long drive to Puerto Lopez

March 14         Day trip to Isla de la Plata

March 15         Machalilla National Park (Rio Blanco portion) and Rio Ayampe

March 16         Rio Ayampe; Salinas; ECUASAL and Puntas Brava and Chocolatiera, Buenos Aires walk

March 17         Guayaquil- Cerro Blanco hike and Puerto Hondo

March 18         Guayaquil- walking the Malecon and relaxing

March 19         Guayaquil to Buenaventura and road birding

March 20         Buenaventura trails

March 21         Buenaventura trails and drove back to Guayaquil

March 22         Head home or more birding!

Great Tinamou (H) White-whiskered Hermit Olive-sided Flycatcher
Little Tinamou (H) Stripe-throated Hermit  Acadian Flycatcher
Pale-browed Tinamou (H) Western Long-tailed (Baron’s) Hermit  Black Phoebe
Great Grebe White-tipped Sicklebill Vermilion Flycatcher
Least Grebe White-necked Jacobin  Masked Water-Tyrant
Pied-billed Grebe  Brown Violet-ear  Long-tailed Tyrant
Brown Pelican Sparkling Violet-ear  Rufous Mourner
Peruvian Pelican Black-throated Mango Dusky-capped Flycatcher (H)
Blue-footed Booby Green Thorntail  Sooty-crowned Flycatcher
Red-footed Booby  Green-crowned Woodnymph  Boat-billed Flycatcher
Nazca Booby Emerald-bellied Woodnymph Rusty-margined Flycatcher
Neotropic Cormorant  Violet-bellied Hummingbird  Gray-capped Flycatcher
Anhinga  Purple-chested Hummingbird Streaked Flycatcher 
Horned Screamer  Andean Emerald  Baird's Flycatcher
Fulvous Whistling-Duck  Amazilia Hummingbird  Piratic Flycatcher
White-cheeked Pintail  Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Fork-tailed Flycatcher
Chilean Flamingo  Purple-bibbed Whitetip Tropical Kingbird
Magnificent Frigatebird  Empress Brilliant  Snowy-throated Kingbird
Red-billed Tropicbird Fawn-breasted Brilliant  Slaty Becard
Cocoi Heron  Green-crowned Brilliant  Cinnamon Becard
Snowy Egret  Brown Inca  Black-and-white Becard
Great Egret  Buff-tailed Coronet One-colored Becard
Little Blue Heron  Velvet-purple Coronet Masked Tityra
Cattle Egret  Violet-tailed Sylph  Black-crowned Tityra
Striated Heron  Wedge-billed Hummingbird White-tailed Jay
Black-crowned Night-Heron  Purple-crowned Fairy  Rufous-browed Peppershrike
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron  Long-billed Starthroat  Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo (H) Red-eyed Vireo
White Ibis  Purple-throated Woodstar Brown-capped Vireo
Glossy Ibis Short-tailed Woodstar  Lesser Greenlet
Black Vulture  Little Woodstar  Andean Solitaire
Turkey Vulture  Choco Trogon Swainson's Thrush
King Vulture Ecuadorian Trogon Great Thrush
Osprey  (Western) White-tailed Trogon Plumbeous-backed Thrush
Gray-headed Kite Collared Trogon Ecuadorian Thrush
Hook-billed Kite Black-throated Trogon White-throated (Dagua) Thrush (H)
Swallow-tailed Kite  (Western) Violaceous Trogon Long-tailed Mockingbird
Pearl Kite  Ringed Kingfisher  Band-backed Wren
White-tailed Kite  Green Kingfisher Fasciated Wren
Snail Kite  Broad-billed Motmot Speckle-breasted Wren
Double-toothed Kite Rufous Motmot Bay Wren
Plumbeous Kite  Blue-crowned Motmot House Wren
Barred Hawk  Rufous-tailed Jacamar White-breasted Wood-Wren (H)
Gray-backed Hawk  Great Jacamar Gray-breasted Wood-Wren 
Savanna Hawk  Pied Puffbird Southern Nightingale-Wren (H)
Harris's Hawk  Barred Puffbird  Tawny-faced Gnatwren
Roadside Hawk  White-whiskered Puffbird Long-billed Gnatwren (H)
Gray Hawk  Lanceolated Monklet Tropical Gnatcatcher
Broad-winged Hawk Orange-fronted Barbet Slate-throated Gnatcatcher
Short-tailed Hawk  Red-headed Barbet Gray-breasted Martin
Variable Hawk  Collared (Pale-mandibled) Aracari Brown-bellied Swallow
Black Hawk-Eagle Choco Toucan (H) Blue-and-white Swallow
Crested Caracara  Black-mandibled Toucan White-thighed Swallow
Laughing Falcon Olivaceous Piculet Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Barred Forest-Falcon Ecuadorian Piculet Barn Swallow
American Kestrel  Golden-olive Woodpecker Bank Swallow
Bat Falcon Lita Woodpecker House Sparrow
Peregrine Falcon  Cinnamon Woodpecker (H) Saffron Siskin
Rufous-headed Chachalaca  Lineated Woodpecker Hooded Siskin
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail (H) Black-cheeked Woodpecker Yellow-bellied Siskin
Limpkin  Smoky-brown Woodpecker  Orange-bellied Euphonia 
White-throated Crake  Red-rumped Woodpecker Orange-crowned Euphonia
Purple Gallinule  Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Thick-billed Euphonia
Common Moorhen Guayaquil Woodpecker  Tropical Parula
Wattled Jaçana  Plain-brown Woodcreeper Olive-crowned Yellowthroat
American Oystercatcher  Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Slate-throated Redstart
Black-necked Stilt  Black-striped Woodcreeper (H) Choco Warbler
Black-bellied Plover  Spotted Woodcreeper Gray-and-gold Warbler
Semipalmated Plover  Streak-headed Woodcreeper Buff-rumped Warbler
Snowy Plover  Red-billed Scythebill Yellow Warbler
Whimbrel  Pale-legged (Pacific) Hornero Crimson-breasted Finch
Spotted Sandpiper  Slaty Spinetail Blue-black Grassquit
Willet  Necklaced Spinetail Variable Seedeater
Lesser Yellowlegs  Red-faced Spinetail Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Ruddy Turnstone  Western Woodhaunter Chestnut-throated Seedeater Lesser Seed-Finch
Sanderling  Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Band-tailed Seedeater
Least Sandpiper  Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Saffron Finch
Stilt Sandpiper  Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Collared Warbling-Finch
Surfbird Streaked Xenops Orange-billed Sparrow
Wandering Tattler Plain Xenops  Black-capped Sparrow
Red-necked Phalarope Great Antshrike Black-striped Sparrow
Wilson's Phalarope  Collared Antshrike Rufous-collared Sparrow
Gray-headed Gull  Western Slaty-Antshrike Bananaquit
Laughing Gull  Plain Antvireo Masked Flowerpiercer
Franklin's Gull  Griscom’s Antwren Green Honeycreeper
Gull-billed Tern  White-flanked Antwren Purple Honeycreeper
Royal Tern Slaty Antwren Blue Dacnis
Elegant Tern  Dot-winged Antwren Yellow-tufted Dacnis
Sandwich Tern  Pacific Antwren Blue-whiskered Tanager
Common Tern White-backed Fire-Eye Rufous-throated Tanager
Rock Pigeon  Chestnut-backed Antbird Golden Tanager
Pale-vented Pigeon  Esmeraldas Antbird Emerald Tanager
Ruddy Pigeon  Black-headed Antthrush Silvery-throated Tanager
Dusky Pigeon Watkins’ Antpitta (H) Blue-necked Tanager
Eared Dove  Choco Tapuculo (H) Golden-hooded Tanager
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove  Rufous Piha Golden-naped Tanager
Croaking Ground-Dove  Black-tipped Cotinga Gray-and-gold Tanager
Blue Ground-Dove (H)  Purple-throated Fruitcrow Bay-headed Tanager
White-tipped Dove Long-wattled Umbrellabird Swallow-Tanager
Pallid Dove (H)  Red-capped Manakin Blue-gray Tanager
Red-masked Parakeet  White-bearded Manakin Palm Tanager
Maroon-tailed Parakeet (H) Club-winged Manakin Lemon-rumped Tanager
Pacific Parrotlet  Thrush-like Schiffornis Summer Tanager
Gray-cheeked Parakeet  Broad-billed Sapayoa Ochre-breasted Tanager
Rose-faced Parrot Sooty-headed Tyrannulet White-lined Tanager
Blue-headed Parrot Golden-faced Tyrannulet White-shouldered Tanager
Bronze-winged Parrot  Brown-capped Tyrannulet Tawny-crested Tanager
Red-lored Parrot Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Scarlet-browed Tanager
Mealy Parrot  Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Dusky-faced Tanager
Gray-capped Cuckoo (H) Pacific Elaenia  Guira Tanager
Squirrel Cuckoo  Greenish Elaenia Scarlet-and-white Tanager
Smooth-billed Ani  Yellow-bellied Elaenia Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager
Groove-billed Ani White-tailed Tyrannulet Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager
Striped Cuckoo  Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Buff-throated Saltator
Spectacled Owl (H) Olive-striped Flycatcher Black-winged Saltator
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Ochre-bellied Flycatcher  Streaked Saltator
Burrowing Owl  Slaty-capped Flycatcher  Slate-colored Grosbeak
Lesser Nighthawk Yellow Tyrannulet Southern Yellow Grosbeak
Pauraque (H) Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Blue-black Grosbeak
Chestnut-collared Swift  Common Tody-Flycatcher Shiny Cowbird
White-collared Swift  Yellow-olive Flycatcher Yellow-rumped Cacique
Gray-rumped Swift  White-throated Spadebill Scarlet-rumped Cacique
Tumbes Swift Ornate Flycatcher Scrub Blackbird
Band-rumped Swift  Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Great-tailed Grackle
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Bran-colored Flycatcher Yellow-tailed Oriole
Bronzy Hermit Western Wood-Pewee Peruvian Meadowlark
Band-tailed Barbthroat Tumbes Pewee
Other Critters
Long-nosed Bat Poison Dart Frog sp Land (Forest) Crab sp
Guayaquil Squirrel Cane Toad Walking Stick sp
Western Red Squirrel Green Iguana Blue Morpho
Western Dwarf Squirrel Fer-de-Lance Owl Butterfly
Mantled Howler Monkey Tegu Lizard sp “88” Butterfly
Brown-headed Spider Monkey Lined Ameiva  Helicopter Damselfly (violet-spotted)
Neotropical River Otter (Ameiva edracantha) Click Beetle (luminous)
South American Coati Western Curly-tailed Lizard (Microlophus occipitalis) “White-legged” Millipede
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth Peru Pacific Lizard  Armoured Millipede
South American Sealion (Microlophus peruvianus) “Colonial Jellies” –Tunicate sp
Tayra (John and Susie) Turtle sp

 

 


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