England: East Anglia Trip Report September 17-28, 2025
Trip Report - East Anglia trip: September 17-28, 2025
September 17
After a couple of days exploring London; seeing the highlights, enjoying pub lunches and watching demonstrations we left our house in Hayes (West London) and started north. Thankfully the traffic along the dreaded M25 wasn’t too bad as we circled around North London and headed towards Cambridge. After our first (of many) pub lunch in Buckden, we made our first birding stop at Grafham Water, England’s third largest reservoir. The water was carpeted with Eurasian Coots, Tufted Duck and Pochard, along with Graylag Geese and a large number of gulls. A nice surprise was a lone Pink-footed Goose, which heralded larger numbers, which we were to see later in the week as we drove north. Dinner and the night were spent at the Old King’s Head in the village of Kirton just south of Boston. This was a modern revamped pub with great staff and very comfortable surroundings. Marilyn and I took an exploratory drive to Frampton RSPB Reserve, which was very disappointing as the water levels were low to non-existent with virtually no water birds at all. The long-staying Whooper Swan was the highlight.
September 18
After a great breakfast we decided to visit a different reserve this morning and walked the circuit at Freiston Shore RSPB Reserve. Despite the wind (which was to be a feature of the whole trip), we had a very pleasant walk. There were many more birds than at nearby Frampton, including good numbers of Bank and Barn Swallows moving south, as well as small flocks of Eurasian Siskin and Meadow Pipits flying overhead. Rather than head into Boston we decided to visit the beautiful limestone town of Stamford. Here we had another great pub lunch at Tobie Norris, a 13th Century building in town. Apparently Mr. Tobias Norris founded a bell foundry in the 17th Century and it was only after that that the building became a pub and restaurant. We spent the remainder of the afternoon exploring the town and running errands before driving to our next destination – the small Victorian seaside resort of Hunstanton in Norfolk. Our home for the next 3 nights was the very comfortable 3 story Victorian building and we would soon be getting very used to climbing stairs!
September 19
After breakfast at our house, we drove a few short miles to Titchwell RSPB Reserve and our first birding spot in Norfolk. It’s always a pleasure to visit here and walk the trail down to the sea. A few ducks had started to arrive, but plenty of shorebirds were present on the pools, including several Curlew Sandpiper and a single Little Stint that was mixed in with a small flock of Dunlin. The tide was well out exposing mud banks where Eurasian Oystercatcher and Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits were feeding. Lunch was at the reserve’s café before we continued east through Norfolk’s small flint-studded villages to Cley-next-the-sea, where we spent the afternoon at the Norfolk Wildlife Trust reserve. We walked to the various reserve hides, where a good selection of shorebirds and waterfowl were feeding; watching Northern Shoveler and Mute Swan bathing and a big flock of Pink-footed Geese loafing on the bank. They were probably tired after their long flight from Iceland or Greenland. We gently wound our way back to Hunstanton for the night.
September 20
Hunstanton has a very interesting rocky coastline with a stretch of chalk cliffs with unusual striping of red and white chalk layers. Both below the cliffs and along the muddy shore the shoreline was carpeted with feeding shorebirds; the most common being Black-tailed Godwit, Eurasian Curlew and Eurasian Oystercatcher. They were joined by good numbers of mostly European Herring and Black-headed Gulls. Our next destination was Holkham Pines, which can be excellent for migrants coming across from Scandinavia or moving south along the English coastline. Unfortunately the winds were all wrong and aside from a few Chiffchaffs, we barely had any migrants. Lunch was at the Jolly Sailors pub in Brancaster Staithe- a small classic Norfolk village, where we enjoyed classic pub fare!
September 21
A weather system came through last night with winds moving around to the Northeast. Hopefully this means we will get some birds! Our first stop was to watch the waves and heavy seas below Hunstanton Cliffs and get another view of the birds below us on the sands. A few Northern Gannets were drifting past and a small party of Sandwich Terns were loafing on the mud-flats, along with hundreds of gulls and Eurasian Oystercatchers. It was then time to drive north to our next birding location on the coast of East Yorkshire. It was a long drive, with a stop at Covenham Reservoir along the way. We didn’t see the Red (Gray) Phalarope, but a small flock of Black Terns and one distant White-winged Tern were the highlights. Lunch was nearby but we still had time to visit the cliffs at Bempton Cliffs RSPB reserve, where the wind was howling from the NE. We were planning to come back in the morning, so spent the evening counting the layers we would need for our upcoming visit! Dinner was at our lodging tonight and a home-cooked Italian meal washed down with red wine.
September 22
Our home in Yorkshire was in the small village of Reighton, only about 4 miles from Bempton Cliffs. The stone house (again with 3 stories) was very well-appointed and even had a “welcome gift basket” in the kitchen. Thank you! The weather at Bempton Cliffs could not have been more different than yesterday and there was barely any wind as we walked along the cliffs in the sunshine. Even the sea was calm with no white caps, making it easy to see the Northern Gannets resting on the surface. We were lucky enough to find a couple of late Common Murres (Guillemots) which had largely abandoned their nesting cliffs by this stage. We watched for small birds in the Dell, but it was mostly Eurasian Tree Sparrows, European Blackbirds, Dunnocks and a couple of Blackcaps. A Yellowhammer showed very well near the road, but the best bird was a Short-eared Owl who walked around in the rough ground atop the cliffs – and sometimes even sat in the open. Wonderful stuff! Lunch was in the café before we left to head north to Whitby. Aside from looking at the ruins of Whitby Abbey from the road, I had never been into the town, which was very nice and historical. The Abbey and the 199 steps are well-known attractions, but Whitby also has a statue of Captain Cook and a picture-perfect harbor. Also I have heard that the fish and chips is among some of the best in the country! The remainder of the afternoon was spent exploring the North York Moors National Park and to look for Willow Ptarmigan (AKA Red Grouse). A stop at Beggar’s Bridge produced some brief views of a White-throated Dipper before it flew upstream. The scenery was beautiful as we climbed higher and by the end of our drive we had seen over 30 grouse- according to the latest taxonomy this may be the UK’s new endemic species – IF it’s split from the widespread Willow Ptarmigan. It was then an hour plus drive back to Reighton.
September 23
After our 2 night stay in Reighton it was time to drive south to Suffolk. It was a long drive, so we made dinner reservations ahead of time at the White Hart in Blythburgh. Our birding stop along the way was at Tophill Low Nature Reserve near Beverly in Yorkshire. None of us had ever heard of this spot before and had been told about it by a visiting birder at Bempton Cliffs the previous day. Run by the Yorkshire Water Authority, Tophill Low was a series of lakes and marshes with patches of woodland – overall a very nice place. The first lake was covered with Eurasian Coots, Tufted Duck, Great Crested Grebes and one Eared (Black-necked) Grebe in the mix. A walk to the marsh through the woods produced a small flock of Crossbills in the pines but only in-flight views of a Common Kingfisher which was being eagerly awaited for by a group of local photographers. Other folks had heard a Tawny Owl in the woods, but it stayed silent during our woodland walk. We still had a way to drive, so it was lunch on the road before picking up mama and getting to Blythburgh in time for dinner. Our home for the next 3 nights was the Old Custom House; a fascinating place full of history, but a very strange (and steep) staircase and the A12 right outside the door. Dinner is always good at the White Hart and it was only 2 minutes back to our lodging.
September 24
As we were only a few miles from Minsmere Bird Reserve, this had to be our first stop and we spent the morning walking the loop around the Scrape and enjoying the comfortable blinds where we could sit out of the wind and watch the birds. Waterfowl had begun to arrive, although most was still in eclipse plumage and the first flock of 15 Northern Pintail were loafing on the Scrape. Because of the lack of rain there were very few shorebirds, but a few Pied Avocet were still around and we had our only Green Sandpiper of the trip. We met my friend John down on the beach where he was sea-watching. He pointed out a Long-tailed Jaeger being harassed by a Parasitic Jaeger, but they were so far away and were barely dots on the horizon. After lunch at the Eel’s Foot, where we marveled at the beautiful swift tower and enjoyed a pub meal, we went back to Minsmere and spent a while at the Island Mere hide waiting for the Bearded Tits (Reedlings) to appear. Unfortunately the wind was still too strong so the Beardies stayed lower in the reed-beds and well out of view. However we did see several Marsh Harriers and a fly-by Eurasian Bittern. A brief walk on Westleton Heath was just as windy but some of the heather was still in bloom. Dinner was back at the house as we planned our itinerary for the following morning. Hopefully the wind will die down a little by tomorrow.
September 25
Unfortunately the wind was still gusting again this morning and our walk around Thorpeness Meare didn’t produce anything new, but lunch in Aldeburgh was memorable at The Wentworth. We did feel like we had stepped back in time but had a very good lunch surrounded by dressed up ladies and gentlemen. Chris took everyone to Aldeburgh and Snape to do some shopping and then explored the church in Blythburgh before we stopped for dinner.
September 26
This morning was our last in Suffolk before we started towards Ely and eventually to London. Our morning stop was at Hen Reed beds, a Suffolk Wildlife Trust’s reserve where we hoped to get our missing bearded Tits (we got quick glimpses). The Blyth Estuary was covered with Eurasian Curlew, Eurasian Oystercatcher and Common Shelduck. We heard a couple of Water Rails, but the best sighting was a Common Kingfisher that sat in full view allowing us great photo opportunities. As we had not had the chance to visit Southwold, we took the time to drive down to the harbor and have lunch at the Harbor Inn where we had our last meal of fish and chips in Suffolk. The harbor was fascinating with fishing boats coming and going, seafood stalls and the ever-present Herring Gulls. After dropping mama back at her house we started our drive to Ely. It was only about 1.5 hours and we were easily there by late afternoon with time to relax at our new house. Compared to our previous houses, this one was more modern and bland with no touches of home- obviously a rental where nobody lived. The advantage was that it was close to the center of Ely. Dinner tonight was at an Italian-style restaurant on the banks of the Great Ouse in town.
September 27
Fen Drayton is another RSPB Reserve and about a 40-minute drive from Ely. It’s a large area of old gravel pits and wetlands and a key piece in the rewilding of the fens. A walk through some rough ground produced a Stonechat, but not a lot else. We walked down to one of the lakes where Eurasian Coots and Tufted Duck were the two most common birds. A couple of Red Kites flew over and several Egyptian Geese loafed on the shoreline. I was hoping for some shorebirds, but none seemed to be present, at least at our end of the lake and it would have been quite the walk to the other side. We stopped just before midday and had our obligatory pub lunch in the nearby village of Swavesey, where the publican and his wife gave us a very nice welcome. Apparently there used to be at least a dozen pubs in the village and alas, there was now only one. This afternoon it was time for culture and a visit to the beautiful Ely Cathedral. Originally built around 1100, this magnificent building attracts over 250,000 visitors a year. We explored the abbey where an orchestra was performing a mix of stirring and modern music before several of us went down the road to tour the Oliver Cromwell house. Dinner was at the Olde Fire House nearby; a great place with fascinating surroundings and delicious food.
September 28
Our last full day started by visiting the Ouse Washes RSPB Reserve, where a band of rain stopped our exploration of the hides. Thankfully we sat in one of them while the rain went through. Here we watched a flock of European Golden-Plover fly in, bathe and then move on. Also a Eurasian Green Woodpecker flew into a nearby tree allowing great views of one of Britain’s more colorful birds. Lunch was nearby in the village of Mepal (pronounced “people”) where we ate at the modern 3 Pickerels hotel/restaurant – a very enjoyable Sunday lunch (for some) of roast beef and Yorkshire pudding! It rained on and off as we drove to London and spent what seemed like forever in bumper to bumper traffic along the awful M25. However, we did get to the hotel in good time, returned the rental vehicle and enjoyed our last dinner before all heading home.
We finished the tour with around 120 bird species, and good numbers of smaller mammals, butterflies and other insects. Thanks to everyone for coming along and exploring the nature and culture of East Anglia.
Simon Thompson
Pied Avocet: symbol of the RSPB